- All
- Commercial Property Inspections
- Home Inspections
- Level II Chimney Inspection
- Moisture Intrusion
- Mold Testing
- Radon
- Sewer Inspections
- Walk-Through Consultation
Radon is a radioactive gas. It is colorless, odorless, and tasteless. It enters your home the same way air and other soil gases enter your home: through cracks in the foundation floor or walls, hollow-brick walls, and openings around floor drains, pipes and sump pumps. Unless you test for it, there is no way of telling how much radon is present.
Radon is formed by the natural radioactive decay of uranium in rock, soil, and water. Low levels of uranium occur naturally in the ground and can be found in all 50 states (although the average radon level in Minnesota is more than three times higher than the national average!) Once produced, radon moves through the ground to the air above. Some remains below the surface and dissolves in the water table flowing underground.
When radon undergoes radioactive decay, radiation is emitted in the form of alpha particles. It also produces decay products, often called progeny, some of which are also radioactive.
Unlike radon, the progeny are not gases and can easily attach to dust and other particles. Those radioactive particles can be transported by air and can also be inhaled.
Radon causes cancer when the radon decay product is inhaled and becomes deeply lodged in the lungs. These particles radiate and can penetrate bronchial cells, mucous membranes, and other lung tissues.
The carcinogenesis process is believed to begin from the ionizing radiation energy affecting the bronchial cells. Radon-related lung cancers are generally seen in the upper airways, but radon increases the frequency of all types of lung cancer, including: Adenocarcinoma, Small Cell Carcinoma, and Squamous Cell Carcinoma.
Lung cancer resulting from breathing in radon decay products is the only known risk associated with radon. Smoking tobacco multiplies the risk of radon-induced lung cancer by an average of 10 times.
According to the Minnesota Department of Health, every 25 minutes, a person in the U.S. dies from radon-related lung cancer. It is the leading environmental cause of cancer deaths and the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers.
Elevated radon levels pose a real threat to both your family and your pets. Pets typically spend more time in the house than their owners so their radon exposure could prove even more hazardous. Also, because pets are regularly kenneled or use a litter box in the basement, they visit radon-heavy areas more often.
Due to the carcinogenic effects of radon, when your pets inhale the decaying particles, it puts them at risk for lung cancer as well as other types of cancers and diseases. Some cancerous radon symptoms include lack of appetite, fever, masses on the body, difficulty breathing, coughing, or excessive vomiting. If you have noticed these symptoms, bring your pet to a veterinarian and get your home tested for radon.
The MN Department of Health recommends that all Minnesota homeowners test their homes for radon because it is widely believed to be the second leading cause of lung cancer. A radon test is the only way to find out how much radon is in your home. Hiring a licensed radon measurement professional is recommended when an unbiased, third party is needed, such as in a real estate transaction. The result from a properly performed radon test will help you decide if you need to reduce your home’s radon level.
The MN Department of Health estimates that 2 in 5 homes exceed the 4.0 pCi/L action level. The best way to know if you have a dangerous radon level in your home is to have a licensed professional test for it.
A pCi is a measure of the rate of radioactive decay of radon. One pCi is one trillionth of a Curie, 0.037 disintegrations per second, or 2.22 disintegrations per minute. Therefore, at the EPA’s recommended action level of 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter), there will be approximately 12,672 radioactive disintegrations in one liter of air during a 24-hour period.
If you’re buying a house, ask whether it’s been recently tested for radon. If it has, ask to see the results. If it hasn’t, it would be wise to have the home tested by a professional. It is common for the buyer to perform a radon test alongside the home inspection and can be a contingency of the purchase contract.
The EPA recommends that to improve indoor air quality, people should consider installing a mitigation system to reduce radon levels below 2.0. While 4.0 is the number that triggers seller action (usually), the lower the radon, the less cumulative impact on health.
If you’re selling your home, it’s a good idea to test it for radon before you put it on the market. That way, if your test reveals elevated levels of radon, you can take care of it before scaring off potential buyers. Be prepared to share test results and any mitigation efforts.
The EPA recommends that to improve indoor air quality, people should consider installing a mitigation system to reduce radon levels below 2.0. While 4.0 is the number that triggers seller action (usually), the lower the radon, the less cumulative impact on health.
No. Radon concentrations vary from house to house. All homes have some radon, but even houses next to each other can have very different radon levels. The only way to measure your radon risk is to test your home.
Radon is a serious public health concern in Minnesota. According to the MN Department of Health, the average radon level in Minnesota is more than three times higher than the U.S. radon level. This is due to our geology and how our homes are operated. Minnesota homes are closed up or heated most of the year, which can result in higher levels of radon. In Minnesota, more than two in five homes have radon levels that pose a significant health risk.
There’s no way to predict exactly where radon might show up, but you can check the EPA’s color-coded map to see predicted averages for every county in the continental United States.
According to the MN Department of Health, all Minnesota homes should be tested for radon and then retested every 2-5 years (and homeowners should save their test results). Additionally, homes should be tested after making changes to the foundation, heating, cooling or ventilation system. If your living patterns change and you begin occupying a lower level of your home (such as a basement) you should retest your home on that level. Also consider testing before a major remodeling project to determine if radon mitigation should be added into the project and then retest after adding a radon mitigation system to make sure it is working properly.
The EPA recommends that to improve indoor air quality, people should consider installing a mitigation system to reduce radon levels below 2.0. While 4.0 is the number that triggers seller action (usually), the lower the radon, the less cumulative impact on health.
Because radon levels can change over time, the MN Department of Health recommends retesting every 2-5 years, especially if use patterns change or perhaps a lower level of the home becomes occupied or used more frequently. Renovations, changes in ventilation, earthquakes, settling of the ground beneath the home, and other changes may cause indoor radon levels to change over time.
The Environment Protection Agency claims that in order for a home to be deemed safe, the radon levels should not exceed 4 pCi/L. If your test results come back slightly elevated you may want to consider a follow-up test in order to confirm whether radon levels are high enough to warrant mitigation. If the average of the initial test and the second test results are equal to or greater than 4 pCi/L, then radon mitigation is highly recommended. If the average of the two test results are less than 4 pCi/L, consider testing again sometime in the future. Additionally, because radon levels can fluctuate between seasons or during varying weather conditions by a considerable amount, a retest following the initial test may be wise.
Yes. Your home can have high radon levels whether it is old or new, well-sealed or drafty, and with or without a basement. Every new home should be tested after occupancy, even if it was built radon-resistant. If radon levels are still in excess of 4 pCi/L, the passive system should be activated by having a qualified mitigator install a vent fan.
New homes are often built with radon-resistant features. Radon-resistant construction techniques can be effective in preventing radon entry. When installed properly and completely, these simple and inexpensive techniques can help reduce indoor radon levels in homes. In addition, installing them at the time of construction makes it easier and less expensive to reduce radon levels further if these passive techniques don’t reduce radon levels to below 4 pCi/L.
The professionals at Branch Property Investigations use industry-leading, continuous radon monitors. Our radon testing devices are verified by the EPA for accuracy and approved for radon testing in real estate transactions. Our monitors are widely considered to provide a more accurate picture of radon levels than the charcoal canister test kits you may have read about. Additionally, we have our monitors calibrated on an annual basis to ensure their accuracy.
When you schedule a test from Branch Property Investigations, one of our radon testing technicians will come to your home and identify the lowest living area in your house. For most homes in Minnesota, this is the basement.
Our technician will set up the radon monitor at the lowest living area of your home, and configure it for 48 hours of continual monitoring. (If additional levels of a foundation system are discovered, extra radon unit(s) are required by the MN Department of Health and will need to be added for an additional fee.)
12 hours prior to the start of your test and during the two days your home is being tested, you will need to avoid opening any windows and ideally should not run your air conditioning system. Normal opening and closing of your entrance door is okay, but you should not leave it propped open for any reason. The radon monitor should not be moved for any reason. After two days, the technician will return and collect the tester, and we begin the process of analyzing the results. Typically the test results and report are made available to the client later that same day.
A radon mitigation system is any system or steps designed to reduce the radon level in your home. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends you take action to reduce your home’s indoor radon levels if your test result is 4 pCi/L or higher.
Mitigation system costs vary depending on the size and design of your home and which radon reduction methods are needed. We are happy to recommend a qualified radon mitigation contractor in the Twin Cities area.
Radon testing is highly regulated in the state of Minnesota. According to MN Statute 144.4961, a license is required for anyone who performs a radon test in a home they do not own or lease.
The Radon Test Notification Form is a document provided by the professional radon tester, per the state’s requirement. This document gives written notice of required test conditions to the party responsible for the property. It also contains a requirement to request a signature on a noninterference agreement.
Please click this link to access a copy of Branch Property Investigation’s Radon Test Notification Form.
Mold is a fungi that can be found both indoors and outdoors. Mold is natural to our environment; some level of mold is present at all times. Outdoor mold can be found in shady, damp areas such as where leaves lay or where vegetation is decomposing. Indoor mold is found when moisture levels rise above 60% relative humidity and a food source exists. There are many food sources in indoor environments.
Mold reproduces by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. Indoor mold is found when moisture levels rise above 60% relative humidity in areas like attics, crawl spaces, basements and bathrooms. There are many types of indoor mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.
No, mold is ubiquitous; you can expect to have invisible air-borne mold present anywhere you go, both indoors and out.
Mold has the potential to cause health problems. Mold produces allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.
Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both allergic and non-allergic people. It is important to see a healthcare provider familiar with the health impacts of mold exposure if you believe mold is causing a health problem.
Surface sampling may be useful to identify a particular type of mold or to confirm an area has been adequately cleaned or remediated. In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is only needed to support disputes or to identify mold species if desired. Sampling for mold should be conducted by professionals like Tom Geoffroy at Branch Property Investigations who have specific experience in designing mold sampling protocols, sampling methods, and interpreting results.
You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the backside of drywall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), under boxes in storage areas, inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or condensation from moisture vapor). Even concrete block can sustain mold growth with the food source a biofilm from dust, dirt, or other organic sources.
Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden mold problem, consider hiring an experienced professional. Removal should only be done in a controlled environment with designed air management and the proper use of personal protective equipment.
It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. There are many local companies who specialize in mold cleanup; we recommend reading online reviews to find the best one to suit your needs. Keep in mind that if you clean up the mold but don’t fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back.
When water leaks or spills occur indoors, act quickly! If wet or damp materials are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter (hygrometer). For basic readings, a small, inexpensive hygrometer is available at many hardware stores.
If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes, act quickly to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.
Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and heaters to the outside where possible.
Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.
Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering.
The term refers to unintended moisture that enters through the “Building Envelope”. The building envelope consists of the exterior shell of your home that’s designed to repel the elements. Examples include: the roof, basement, windows & doors, exterior walls and the drainage plane, foundation waterproofing, exterior house wrap, ice and water shield, and roofing felt, that is behind the exterior finishes. Moisture intrusion can be obvious and easily found or very subtle and require instruments and testing to locate the source.
There are three main “moisture transport vehicles” that create avenues and allow water into your home.
1. Bulk Water Movement
The most common moisture intrusion issues I see in Twin Cities’ homes are a result of “bulk moisture movement”, also known as liquid flow (rain, snow, ground water). This type of intrusion is typically immediate, easily discovered and also the most damaging. Three conditions are required to allow bulk moisture flow into a building: 1) a source of water 2) an opening or failure in the drainage plane of the building and 3) a driving force such as gravity or pressure.
2. Capillary Action
Capillary action refers to the ability of water to travel up against the pull of gravity through a porous material. It works because the friction of the moisture against the wall surface (adhesion to the wall) actually exceeds the cohesive forces between the water molecules. Although not as serious as bulk water movement, capillary forces are both destructive and secretive, since they often work and accumulate in commonly unobserved areas. They can potentially cause significant damage over a period of time without a homeowner’s knowledge.
3. Air Transported Moisture and Diffused Air Flow
Air-transported moisture (water vapor hitchhiking on air) can leak into, or out of buildings. Both uncontrolled pressure sources (wind) and controlled sources (fans and air handlers) can move significant amounts of moist air past a home’s exterior through openings and improperly flashed transitions. A similar process known as “diffused air flow” forces small amounts of moisture in the form of water vapor to pass directly through a building’s envelope. The amount of diffused air flow (vapor) that occurs in a home is determined by two things: the driving force that pushes it and the permeability of the building material the vapor is passing through.
Eliminating moisture intrusion sources as early as possible is critically important in caring for your property. Examine your house regularly to look for any new staining or moisture. Sometimes, your nose can be a good guide. If you smell a musty odor, follow your nose and see if you can find a probable cause.
If you know moisture is coming in, but can’t find it, it’s time to bring in the professionals. The longer you wait to solve a moisture intrusion source, the more expensive the fix becomes.
To assist our clients, Branch Property Investigations provides specific moisture intrusion testing, inspection and consulting services for property buyers and owners to verify that building envelope systems have been installed correctly. We have nearly 25 years experience solving moisture issues. For more information, contact us at (612) 440-8466 or schedule a “Moisture Intrusion” investigation online.
Branch Property Investigations performs mold testing in residential homes and commercial buildings. So what makes our company unique? We apply 20+ years experience as a mold remediator and water loss specialist to identify likely locations for mold growth. If desired, we can perform a detailed moisture investigation of the entire home as an added service to mold testing. It is important to not only find the mold problem but also understand why it is growing and to eliminate the moisture source so it won’t reoccur. We don’t perform remediation work so we don’t have any conflicts of interest.
To learn more, visit our Mold Testing page to learn more about our different service offerings and frequently asked questions pertaining to mold.
It’s important our clients understand this is a visual inspection only. We make observations and test operational functionality of home systems and major appliances but we are not diagnosing specific issues like why the gas fireplace won’t start or why the dishwasher purrs a little too loudly. We recommend hiring industry-related professionals to diagnose these specific issues.
If we come across a sealed attic-hatch we will need written permission from the seller to break that seal. It is always our goal to leave a property exactly as we found it unless specific requests are agreed upon (and are documented in writing) by both buyer and seller.
This inspection is NOT a building code inspection; building code is inspected as the property is being built.
Our home inspections are considered a “point in time” inspection; there may be items we are unable to inspect on a given day, like: the roof due to snow/rain, the air conditioning system because the temperature is too cold to operate it safely without damage to components, and some of the exterior as it was also covered by snow.
It is our goal to provide you with the most comprehensive home inspection available on a given day while also considering the safety and well-being of our inspectors.
There is nothing in our inspection report that has to be done. Our report findings are or you and your realtor or other advisors to go through and determine what steps you would like to take next. Our goal is to inform you, not to rate a house.
It’s not unusual for clients to call us months after their inspection with a home-related question and we always do our best to help!
We prefer you not attend the whole inspection but rather just the “inspection walkthrough” which happens the last hour or so of your inspection window.
Once you’ve scheduled your inspection, you should receive a confirmation email indicating the precise time you should arrive for your inspection walkthrough. (The walkthrough usually takes 45-60 minutes, depending on the age and size of the property.)
Your inspector will use the “walkthrough” time to provide you (and your realtor or other advisors present) a summary of the most significant inspection findings displayed on a tablet. You will have ample time to ask your inspector questions.
Your inspector will continue to work on your report following the walkthrough. We must ensure all images and video taken onsite are uploaded with specific comments to best help you understand our recommendations. Your report will be emailed to you as soon as it is ready later that same day, often late-evening, assuming payment has been confirmed.
Our inspectors work very hard to complete their inspection reports the same day the inspection was performed (oftentimes this means it will arrive late in the evening).
During your inspection walkthrough, you will have the opportunity to review a summary of major findings but the actual FULL report will not be completed until later in the day. Your inspector must ensure all images and video taken onsite are uploaded with specific comments to best help you understand the recommendations.
Your report will be emailed to you (and your realtor if specified) as soon as it is ready later that same day, often late-evening, assuming payment has been confirmed.
Thanks for asking!
You have 4 options:
- Bank Transfer
- Cash
- Check
- Credit Card (This option is available upon request. A 3% fee is assessed to use this option. Please call our office at (612) 440-8466 to request this option.)
We will email you an invoice (typically shortly after you schedule your inspection) that includes a link for you to pay simply via bank transfer, or you may bring cash/check to the inspection walkthrough. Our inspectors do not process any card payments on site but prefer you take care of this form of payment online.
Please note our inspectors do not release their final reports until payment has been confirmed.
No problem at all! You have a couple options when it comes to adding any additional service to your existing inspection:
- Call us at (612) 440-8466 to add another service to your inspection
- Email us and in the subject line, simply write: “PLEASE ADD RADON TESTING TO MY INSPECTION” or whatever service you wish to add-on
You should receive a new confirmation email reflecting the change. Most likely your walkthrough will be pushed back by 30 minutes to allow for radon testing or 60 minutes, if a moisture intrusion investigation is added.
*Radon testing requires 48 hours so if you have a next-day inspection, we’ll have to set your radon during your inspection and pick it up two days or 48 hours later. Your radon test results will be emailed to you the day we pick-up the unit(s).
We service the Twin Cities and surrounding metro area including, but not limited to the following cities: Eden Prairie, Chanhassen, Chaska, Maple Grove, Plymouth, Minnetonka, Wayzata, Minneapolis, St. Paul, Hopkins, Edina, Richfield, Shakopee, Savage, Prior Lake, Bloomington, Burnsville, Eagan, Apple Valley, Lakeville, Rosemount, Woodbury, Oakdale, Maplewood, Roseville, Blaine, Golden Valley, and St. Louis Park.
If you are outside our normal service area (35 miles any direction from our home base in Chanhassen), an additional travel fee may apply and will be visible to you in the online scheduler. Please don’t hesitate to call (612) 440-8466 or email with specific questions!
We allow up to 60 minutes at a property for a Walk-through Consultation appointment but sellers may limit Showings to shorter time frames — this is beyond our control.
For a walk-through consultation, your realtor is responsible for scheduling the ShowingTime appointment and must be present during this walk-through so punctuality by all is especially important given the very tight time frame.
Based on our experience conducting these types of appointments, we recommend scheduling a Walk-Through Consultation after you’ve visited the property once and decided you like what you’ve seen.
Yes, we are happy to join you at a seller’s Open House (although a private Showing is preferred). It’s very possible other buyers may overhear details of our conversation.
There is not a Standard of Practice to follow with this type of appointment. We do not guarantee to check a list of particular items as we are never sure how much time we’ll have on site. We aim to cover as much ground as possible in the time allotted!
We are looking for “red flags” and will communicate them in real time. We recommend you assign someone to take notes so we can cover as much ground as possible without delays.
No. This is a verbal consultation only. We will walk through the home, communicating any “red flags” we see in real time. We recommend you assign someone to take notes so we can cover as much ground as possible without delays.
The only tool we will use is a flashlight (no ladders, no diagnostic meters, etc.). This appointment is not to be confused with a home inspection where we would employ those tools and spend 3-4 hours investigating a property. (Sellers aren’t expecting potential buyers to climb into their attic or remove the electrical panel cover during a Showing; these tasks require permission and are commonly executed during a home inspection.)
No, this service is never to be considered a replacement for a home inspection. We strongly encourage all buyers to invest in a home inspection. The elaborate inspection report with photos and descriptions of defects, as well as recommendations, will help set clear expectations on what lies ahead. You’ll be far better equipped to develop an action plan to address issues.
After you (or your realtor) call to schedule your appointment, we’ll email you an invoice. Due to the last-minute nature of these appointments, we do request you pay online once you receive your invoice.
We prefer payment via online bank transfer ($200) but are able to accept credit cards for this type of appointment ($206). A 3% service fee is applied to credit card transactions; please call or email our office at (612) 440-8466 if you’d prefer to pay via credit card. Thanks!
A professional inspector will inspect the sewer line of the home by inserting a flexible borescope camera into the pipes. Then, while recording, the camera will be guided into the sewer line, which drains the home’s wastewater into the sewer system.
Using this camera, the inspector will perform a comprehensive inspection of the sewer line, and look for things like cracks, damage to the lines, roots that have grown through the pipe, and any other potential concerns.
You will receive a written synopsis including pipe material, length of sewer main, general condition, damage findings (if any) and recommendations for future maintenance and/or repair, and a link to the narrated video footage.
The inspector will contact the client and relay any pertinent information and recommendations to rectify the problem. We will suggest that the client contact a plumbing contractor to provide a detailed repair estimate for the damages discovered.
If sewer access cannot be located, the inspector will determine if the property is eligible for a toilet pull or if it would be possible to conduct the inspection through the roof vent. A toilet pull will require a waiver signed by the property owner. Generally, we will have to reschedule the inspection for another day/time.
If it is determined an inspection could be conducted through the roof vent, the technician will get permission for the additional charge before proceeding. A toilet pull will incur an additional charge for the removal and reinstallation on the toilet.
We recommend a Level II Chimney Inspection before you purchase a home and especially before you use a fireplace for the first time after buying a property.
Annual chimney inspections and cleanings are recommended as part of routine home maintenance, and especially when there’s been a change in the status of the fireplace. This includes positive changes, like remodels and renovations. This also includes negative circumstances, like a fire, flooding, or structural damage.
If you use your fireplace at all, an annual inspection is highly recommended. This includes gas fireplaces! Manufacturers of natural and gas-burning appliances recommend annual inspection and cleaning of all their products. Annual inspections and cleanings help your gas fireplace run more efficiently and safely.
A chimney inspector can’t inspect a blocked flue, but if the damper is operable, the inspector can inspect any flue type.
The chimney camera is fed from the fireplace up to the chimney top. The chimney exterior may be assessed from the roof or ground, depending on weather and other factors. Our goal is to provide you with as much information as possible while keeping our inspectors safe in the process.
It depends on many factors, but typically we can schedule an inspection within 1-2 weeks after a proposal is accepted.
A commercial property inspection can range from 3-4 hours to 3-4 days, depending on the size and scope of the inspection and the number of buildings involved. Please call us to discuss your property and needs!
Can you provide references or examples of previous commercial property inspections you’ve conducted?
We’ve inspected many types of structures such as office buildings, retail buildings, mixed use buildings, day care centers, medical centers and industrial buildings.
That’s determined by the scope of services requested. We typically inspect the roof (roof access needed for 2+ story roofs), the exterior, the mechanical & electrical equipment, the parking lot and lighting, the rest rooms, and other interior elements. We observe but don’t inspect the fire/life/safety systems, elevators, sprinkler systems, ADA compliance.
A comprehensive report that includes many photos and observations about the property. They typically run 50+ pages, include an executive summary with general information about the property, and categorize our findings into maintenance issues, defects, and material/safety issues.
For smaller projects, within 24 hours. For larger or multi-building projects, 2-3 days.
The cost varies depending on size, scope and age of the property being inspected. We tailor the inspection to our client’s needs and provide a detailed proposal with the agreed scope and price before scheduling any work.
We need access to all parts of the building that are included in the scope of work. We can work in an occupied building during business hours or an unoccupied building. We have worked in restricted access buildings that require supervised access due to sensitive information.
Our lead inspector, Tom Geoffroy, is a Certified Commercial Property Inspector, and has been inspecting properties of all types for many years. He will direct the needed team to assess the property and compile the final report.
Where possible, we try to date each type of mechanical equipment (rooftop units, furnaces, condensers, water heaters) if the date is observable. We will assess the roof, but can’t give an accurate age or expected remaining life of the roof. Where roof damage is observed, we will suggest a qualified roofing contractor determine the extent of roof repairs or if replacement is needed.
You may pay via ACH bank transfer, cash, or check. We can process a credit card but pass along the 3% fee we are assessed by the creditor; please let us know if you’d prefer this option when scheduling.
In Minnesota, FHA appraisers follow the HUD guidelines for minimum property standards. Homes must meet the following appraisal requirements, or be repaired to meet requirements, to be approved for an FHA loan.
Please note that Branch Property Investigations is hired to inspect the property and provide a subsequent written report but does not get involved in the lending process or provide specific feedback pertaining to the FHA checklist.
The following is a sample FHA Appraisal Inspection Checklist we gathered from various internet sources. Please check with your lender to confirm specific requirements.
- Must have an undamaged exterior, foundation, and roof
- Must have safe and reasonable property access
- Must not contain loose wiring and exposed electrical systems
- Must have all relevant utilities, including gas, electricity, water, and sewage functioning properly
- Must have a working, permanent heating system that can heat the property adequately
- Must have surfaces free of chipping or peeling lead-based paint
- Must have adequate access to attic spaces and natural ventilation in crawl spaces
- Must have access to potable water and sufficient drainage away from the home
- Must be free from pest or insect infestations
- Must not have interior and exterior health and safety hazards, such as no handrails on steep staircases
- Must have working appliances
- Must be a marketable property
- Any previous repairs and renovations done to the property must be reviewed to ensure that they adhere to compliance with codes and regulations.
For your convenience, please feel free to download this FHA Inspection Checklist.